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  1. #1
    Senior Member conor07's Avatar
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    1FunRyd H22 kit review. DO NOT BUY.

    hi guys. After several months and multiple quality and design issues with Sean Tydingco's (1FunRyd) H22 swap mounts and traction bar I thought it was about time I post a review. In short. Do not buy these products.




    Issue number 1. order costs.

    I first ordered the mounts on the 23rd of September 2014. I ordered the parts as all standard but without the tube for the traction bar to save on postage and i would source my own tube. and I wanted the transition mount welded 25mm higher up the mounting plate on the chassis rail. Because I ordered the traction bar without the main tube this meant that it no longer needed to be welded together or powder coated. The welding and powder coating was a significant part of the over all cost, so after asking for a reduced price because the traction bar required significantly less work to make, Sean removed a total (and joke) of $10. He then proceeded to add $60 to the cost to weld the transition mount 25mm higher up. Sean also agreed that he would supply me with a copy of the dimensions to allow me to assemble the traction bar correctly when the parts arrive, however he failed to send me the dimensions before the parts arrived.





    Issue number 2. manufacturing time

    I payed the invoice to 1FunRyd on the 20th of October 2014. Sean's original quote for production time was 30 days. i also sent him constant reminders that i needed the plans for the traction but but he never sent them

    i also sent him constant reminders that i needed the plans for the traction but he never sent them. After constantly chasing him up and after many excuses from Sean such as emails not sending, supplier issues, manufacturing issues, paint and powder coat issues, family issues, closed for holidays and even " I have a ton on my plate". I had various events planned around the time that Sean had originally given me for the mount that i missed. Every time i had an event coming up i contacted him and asked if the mounts would finally be done and he told me yes they would be ready for the date and foolishly i paid entry fees only to be let down repetitively when more "issues" prevented him posting the parts. 90 days later (3x the original estimate) i contacted Sean to ask for my money back because at this point it seemed he was not supplying the parts.

    as you can see he refused to refund my money.

    The parts later arrived on the 10th of April 2015. Over 4 and a half months past the original due date. So that's 80% longer then originally quoted. No refunds or compensation was offered to cover my time or money he had wasted.





    Issue number 3. finish quality of parts

    So, after 5 1/2 months and $1500 later you would expect some quality parts. however they were far from it. First thing i noticed is the powder coat. It was patchy. had poor finish, only 1 half of each mount was done and it was badly damaged as the mounts were just Rolling around in a box together with some packing peanuts and had no real protection.

    This is the kind of damage that was on each part.



    This is the very poor finish. Powder coat is supposed to be glass smooth and very thick. I doubt this was even powder coat.


    As you can see in this pic. half of each mount is the correct powder coated gloss finish, the other half appears to be spray paint.


    The next issue i noticed was the poor quality of the welding. Once again I was promised a top quality job by Sean and for $1500 i expect a top quality part. However the welding was uneven, had bad porosity, spatter and bits of welding wire still stuck to the parts.

    Here can can see some of the porosity (the small craters) weld porosity indicates that the welder is set up badly and there are contaminants in the weld itself resulting in very weak joints and air pockets. This sort of issue should have never been passed onto a finished product.



    here you can see some of the mig spatter and even some welding wire still atached and just painted over!


    next issue i noticed is the bushing tubes. just to clarify I am fitter machenest by trade and have qualifications in light fabrication, welding and machining. the normal way to finish a tube like this is to machine the ends flat. however the tubes supplied with this kit appear to have been cut very poorly with some kind of hand saw and not powder coated after like i payed for.

    you can see here how incraedably wonky the parts have been cut.



    All tubes on the job were left with the poor saw finish. Not square and with sharp edges.


    The next issue was the poor finishing. The parts seem to have just been cut out and slapped in a box. There were still the ends from the laser cutter. Still sharp edges and burs so big the bolts wouldn't even fit in the holes. Here are some examples

    You can see here the edge left by the laser cutter. This is one of the first things you remove when doing the final finishing of a job but here it has just been painted over. These were all over the job along with slag and sharp edges from the laser cutter.


    Here is an example of the massive sharp edges still left on the parts. Some to the point that the bolts would not even fit.


    The next issue was the hardware (nuts, bolts and so on) that it was supplied with. The first problem, be it a minor one. was all the bolts supplied were of the old imperial measurements. Why you would supply parts with imperial bolts to go on a metric Japanese car is beyond me. Anyone with some common sense should have known better. Also half the mounts used zinc plated hex head bolts while the other half used blackened counter sunk alan bolts. Why the mix of different kinds of bolts? I don't know. Also the holes for the counter sunk bolts was not deep enough anyway so I replaced them with a countersunk washer and matching hex head bolts.

    You can see here an example of the counter sunk black bolts on the left and zink on the right. Was this kit just thrown together with the bolts he had lying around?


    The next issue was the modification i asked for. I asked for the mount to be welded 25mm higher up the plate that bolts to the chassis rail, and i was charged $60 extra for that change. However instead of changing its location on the plate, the square RHS section was shorted by 25mm. which in theory should have the same affect of raising the engine. This caused other issues. If the modification was carried out how i asked or even if just a little common sense was applied on Sean's part this could have been avoided.

    the part that was shortened


    These 2 green lines should be a 90 degrees to each other, but because of the incorrect modification they are not as the 2 parts of the mount now contact where the red X is. If these parts were test assembled before being sent off this would have been obvious. (also note the damaged powder cote and blobby welding)


    It also meant that when fitted the mount was jammed against the shiftier box


    this eror resulted in me having to cut that mount apart, add in 25mm to the RHS section and move the mount up the plate like i had originaly asked (note the smooth consistent weld and no porosity).


    the next issue with the mounts was the 2 spacer tubes welded to the bottom of the transmission mount. As well as the poor and crooked saw finish, they were also about 15mm too long and would not allow the 3rd mount to seat properly on the transmission. I had to cut 15mm off each one before it would fit correctly.

    note the gap caused by the incorrectly sized tubes.


    After all this and hours of extra work on my part the mounts finally seemed like they were in acceptable condition. This is whatIi would expect from $150 China eBay mounts not 5 month wait time, $1500 custom made mounts. Disgraceful. Now onto the next issue.





    issue number 4. the traction bar parts.

    So as well as never supplying the plans as Sean had promised the traction bar parts were also incorrectly or poorly made and missing parts. Here are some photos.

    First thing i noticed, Can you spot what's not right with these 4 parts?. The 3rd one from the left has a hole much smaller then the other 3 You would think this would be picked up before the parts were sent to me, but no.


    after trying to assemble the parts. not only was that hole to small for the bolt to even fit though and needed to be re drilled. but the other 3 holes were way to big. you can see here the massive space around the supplied bolt that was ment to fit in


    I ended up having to waste more time to make spacers to press in to make the bolts fit correctly.


    After fixing them I moved onto the the castor rods. The rods were anodised gold aluminium. The gold finish had similar damage as everything else as they were flying around the box with the steel engine mounts. As well as the cheap Chinese rose joints that were supplied the kit was also missing 2 left hand fine thread old style imperial half thickness nuts (Why again with the imperial on a metric car?) This being a very odd size nut I had to wait to order some in that I had to buy myself. Once they arrived I then found that the thread in the aluminium tubes was not cut correctly and the rose joints would not even screw in. I informed Sean of these issues and like all the other issues he said it was not his fault and tried to pass the blame onto other people and myself....

    This is the extra material that was removed from the thread (with an old style imperial tap I had to order especially) to make the rose joints screw in correctly. This should have been picked up before the mounts were sent out. Is 5 months not long enough to test a thread?






    the final and almost fatal issue. issue number 5.

    Once I started to weld the supplied parts to the tube I bought it seemed that i was missing the parts that the traction bar was advertised as having. The part here is circled in red. It holds the traction bar into the original sub frame mounts.


    Without this part the only thing holding the front traction bar in place (for those who don't know the traction bar takes 100% of the load when accelerating and braking so i guess you could say its a little important) is the plates that bolt to the tow points. After asking Sean about the missing parts he claimed they warped the inner plate. I can tell you now, if you have half a clue what you're doing with a welder, there i no way you can warp a bit of 5mm plate steel by welding another bit of plate steel to it at 90 degrees. I can only assume the real reason the part is no longer supplied is to help cut costs and increase profit margin. I was not informed of the changes when the part was sent. After I questioned Sean about the structural integrity of the new design he assured me it would be OK.



    And this is when things got interesting, driving to a car meet a few weeks after I had the h22 installed. I was on the highway doing about 100kph and suddenly the car ripped into the other lane and almost into a light post but i managed to save it and skid to a stop at about 45 degrees off where I was original pointing. Some of my friends came to help me and we dragged the car off the road. After jacking the car up we found the 6 bolts that hold the traction bar to the tow point holes had sheared off or ripped the welded nuts off the inside of the sub frame. This allowed the wheels to move back in the arches and lock against the inside of the wheel arch causing the car to lose control and slide off the road. After getting the car home to inspect the damage, i found that on 1 side 2 of the bolts snapped off and 1 ripped the nut from the chassis and on the other side 1 bolt had sheared off and the other 2 nuts were ripped off the chassis. This is the reason the traction bar was originally meant to bolt to the tow points AND the sub frame mounts but to cut costs the kits now just bolt to the tow points. After doing some research I found some cheap traction bar kits for Civics and Integras that just bolt to the tow points I found they all tear out of the car because the tow point is not meant to take that kind of load. This information was not hard to find and Sean should have looked into the changes before they were made to his kit and before he gets someone killed. To repair my car I had to cut portions out of the chassis rails to replace the nuts. I once again asked Sean for a part refund to cover me for the poor quality mounts, missing parts, tools I had to buy and now the time I have had to spend doing major chassis work to fix the damage his poorly designed traction bar had done. His response was that it was not his fault the traction bar tore off. It was the bolt's fault. The bolts used were the original Honda bolts, as specified for use by Sean. Also, just to add, my car has a stock h22 with stock 3rd gen brakes, which is what the kit was designed to handle however Sean was adamant that it was Honda's fault for making bad bolts not his fault for no longer supplying the parts to hold the traction bar to the original sub frame mounts. After talking with him further he then said it was my fault because I welded the tube on. Then his argument changed to it being the bolt's fault again.



    Here is a photo of where the traction bar was attached. You can see one of the internal nuts is missing and 1 of the broken bolts is still stuck in the hole.


    This is a quick video I made of the inside of the chassis rail. You can see the size of the area I had to cut out and then re weld into the side of my chassis rail. You can see the 2 points on the bottom is where the traction bar would have originally bolted to if it not for the cost cutting. You can see the bolts are much longer and larger and the area is reinforced. Compare that to the small nuts on the inside where the tow point goes. This, and the fact that this is a common problem with cheap Civic and Intagra traction bars shows how much thought and research goes into Sean's designs.



    So I guess to sum up my review on 1FunRyd performance H22 swap kit for 3rd gen prelude.
    manufacturing time was pathetic
    quality was pathetic
    the fit was pathetic
    the missing parts where pathetic
    the massive price for minimum quality was pathetic
    the changes made without informing me were pathetic
    the excuses were pathetic
    and the overall design is simply dangerous.

    If you have a traction bar from Sean that only bolts to the tow points I recommend you DO NOT drive the car until Sean has fixed the issues. The bolts break from fatigue. You wont feel them get loose. One day they will just snap.

    It is now almost a year since first dealing with Sean, and after many issues and months of waiting for replies the only refund he offered was $100 over 4 $25 payments, and about 10,000 excuses. I have had enough of trying to deal fair with him and allowing him to send some of my money back on his own and and am now working with Paypal for a part refund. Good luck to anyone else with his products on your car.

  2. #2
    PA Resident Flipmods's Avatar
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    Wow, sorry to hear the bad experience. At least your still alive.
    This is why i prefer to make and build my car myself, i am sure you will do the same from now on.

    BRING BACK THE FORUMS!

  3. #3
    Senior Member lorby's Avatar
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    I very much appreciate what Sean has done for the 3g community. Without him there wouldn't be a lot of cool stuff available. But unfortunately whoever was commissioned to build this looks to me like the let the apprentice build it on his first day. I'm no expert but surely they would have a jig setup for the traction bar, why the odd size holes? And there is no excuse for those bushings, they should have been cut and cleaned up professionally not butchered. Not to mention the welding, the paint etc etc. and I agree 100% that the traction bar should be using the original crossmember mounts. That's what they were made for.

    Oh and those tubes on the transmission mount are laughable. That bit had nothing to do with the modification you asked for and should have been made according to a template/jig. Imagine bolting it on with that 15mm gap haha
    Last edited by lorby; 17th July 2015 at 12:37 AM.

  4. #4
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Cheers for sharing Conor.
    Imperial bolts on a metric car. Because Merica! Just curious whats the grade on the bolts? I'd expect a minimum of 8.8. Looking at the head markings It seams not.

    While Sean's heart is in the right place the parts being supplied are being let down by rubbish fabricators.
    I'd suggest he's also getting sandwiched and trying not to take a hit in the pocket. Not the right thing by those buying products though.

    As Chris said. DIY. You've certainly got the skills.

    PS. Stock (DIY notched) cross member, OEM filled mounts. DIY custom front mount. Still going strong.

  5. #5
    Junior Member Squalled_'s Avatar
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    Sucks about the whole situation you've had to go through.

    Glad to see that you've spread this over Facebook also.
    Lived The Prelude Life 13/11/13 - 15/09/15
    1998 Prelude VTi-R - Supermarine Blue B-84
    H22A4, 5pd - Basic 'I wanna hear my VTEC' Modifications

  6. #6
    Senior Member conor07's Avatar
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    imperial bolts have lines on the heads to specify grade. now from memory (dont quote me on this). these bolts had 3 lines whitch i think is grade 5. grade 8 or higher is indicated by 6 lines.

    also the i could have made them myself yes. but this car is my daily and i did not have time to have it off the road for a week or 2 pulling the enigne in and out to make mounts. the point of buying Seans was so i knew they would fit and i could just do the swap over the weekend

    i would have preferred to use my stock front cross member. but the factory castor rod mounts dont alow them to clear the crank pully on the h22.

  7. #7
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    That is a truly awful experience and I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. You are very lucky that there wasn't more damage (or worse) from the traction bar breaking loose. You expect some measure of trouble when installing cheap Chinese parts and you'd expect poor quality but nothing that bad, especially from a (supposedly) reputable dealer after paying them a fortune.

    You are completely correct though, it's not the sheer strength of the bolts that is in question, there simply aren't enough of them or in the right location to do the job they're tasked with. If you had upgraded the bolts then they probably would have just pulled all of the nuts out of the chassis instead like it had started to. It is not like you were overly stressing the car either, just driving down the road. It would have snapped in a heartbeat if you were at the strip which is supposedly what these parts are built to handle. It shouldn't be up to you to make the call about whether or not to upgrade the bolts either, they make the parts they should tell you if something needs to be modified to take them. The fact that Sean knew about the issues with the non-reinforced traction bars and didn't tell you is simply unacceptable, then to offer you nothing but a joke of a refund in return is atrocious. If you know your product is not up to scratch then DON'T SELL IT, and if you cannot stand by your product in this day and age then you shouldn't be making or selling parts.

    Thank you for sharing your experience, I know I for one will not be dealing with him (not that he sells 4G parts anyway).
    Symmons Plains - 1:12.280

  8. #8
    Regular Member m00`'s Avatar
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    glad you aren't hurt conor! as the other guys said you can probably make all that shiz on your own.

    lol'ed at imperial bolts. dam mericans
    "You don't feel the speed, in a way. You just don't feel the speed. The car is so stable and so comfortable.. unless you look at the speed gauge you don't realise you're going that fast. This is a good compromise between the sporting side and the comfort side. As I said, I think it is a super, super car." - Ayrton Senna

  9. #9
    Junior Member Zak's Avatar
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    What a shit experience, don't think I would have probably stayed as calm haha.

  10. #10
    Junior Member Valentich's Avatar
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    Well that screws me... I was waiting (for 3 months) for a shipping quote.
    But I think I'll have to look for other options....
    Anyone in the mood to start making the mounts LOL

  11. #11
    Regular Member m00`'s Avatar
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    conor you should start making your own kit and selling it in australia (100% srs)
    "You don't feel the speed, in a way. You just don't feel the speed. The car is so stable and so comfortable.. unless you look at the speed gauge you don't realise you're going that fast. This is a good compromise between the sporting side and the comfort side. As I said, I think it is a super, super car." - Ayrton Senna

  12. #12
    Junior Member Valentich's Avatar
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    Yeah.... I would pay the dollars to get a good quality it....

  13. #13
    Silver Member renzokukenj's Avatar
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    wonder if sean will comment in here..
    ʍǝɹɔ uʍop ǝpısdn

    私の進行中のスレッドを確認してください
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    Hey Furo, whats the finger spacing for your rear?
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    How much do I have to pay you or how much dick do I have to suck to get you to take me for a ride?!

  14. #14
    Regular Member 1funryd's Avatar
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    I am here.

    I have already lashed my vendor for this terrible transaction and forced him to payback a portion for quality control issues - only.
    I am paying back all of my profit and a little more as well, I was already paying back Conor prior to this, but he wanted more than I am willing to give, that's why he posted everything and gave his review.

    I agreed with him, that the powder coated was sub-par, the welds, well that is not what I agreed on, but my vendor saw the pics, and he disagrees with the over all structural strength, so that is not a problem.
    But there are opinions about that, so I am not covering opinions, I am covering only specific things.
    If the mount failed, then we cover that, if not, then we don't. And if the customer did not like it he should not have modified it, and should have sent it back. He did not.
    Time was a factor as well, that I am refunding for as well.

    The weld splatter I also agree is another quality control issue.
    The shortening of the mount was done because Baron wanted to lift the engine higher vs go lower that's why we cut it -25mm instead of make it longer by 25mm. Making the mount longer as requested would have lowered the overall engine and tranny which was not what he wanted, so a good mistake on our part. But Baron was aware we have not tested this and we will not cover a one off special order part that is not tested.
    That was a mistake on our part for not following that part to the letter, but Baron was refunded that as well.

    Baron had to modify the tranny bracket to do what he wanted to do, and I will not cover that as well, since its outside of my design and not tested by me/vendor.
    We were only asked to lengthen the tranny mount and that was it.

    Traction Bar:
    Baron wanted to save on shipping and asked to order only the plates and parts to assemble himself, warranty not covered.
    Baron welded the bar himself. Not covered by me.
    The bar after it was assembled did not fail, the bolts faild - not covered by me.

    I have pulled this design which was not what I wanted in the first place, but my vendor promised me that his design change will hold. And it did hold.
    He has tested this same design on his Race car Acura integra that puts out 600whp and has never failed.

    But since this scenario, I demanded he pull it and use my original design from now on, so that is been rectified.
    No future order will go out with the old design, and all quality control will be handled by me directly from now on.
    I trusted my vendor to do his job, and in this scenario, he failed. That has been rectified.


    Let me be clear about some things:
    1. You as a customer need to be aware of your local laws whether domestic US or international. I am not responsible nor will I be responsible for the use of an off road part on state and city streets.
    2. I only cover damages to the product I provide, not to your vehicle. It is standard business practice over here in the US, outside of that, it is not my responsibility.
    3. If you follow the warranty procedure, I will cover the flaws to the product only. Shipping is handled by the customer to send it back, and I will cover shipping back to the customer. Another standard business practice.
    4. The design whether you agree with it or not, did not fail. What failed in this case was the old OE bolts, that I said he could use, but I am not a hardware engineer and I do not send hardware like bolts with my kits simple because its a slippery sloap that I do not want to cover.
    5. How a customer uses my parts and the type of abuse it is used for, I am not responsible for, if you feel my product is not up to the task, you will need to contact me first and discuss the options and while I can make recommendations, I am not liable for the options you choose.
    Last edited by 1funryd; 22nd July 2015 at 07:50 AM.
    Sean
    3rd Gen Prelude H22 Mounts for sale i ask me how...


    www.1FunRyd.com

  15. #15
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    I think we've covered the bolt Vs design queries elsewhere.
    Any replacement bar MUST bolt to the chassis in the same locations as the original.
    From what i've read, this applies in the US as well.

    The fabricator made assumptions about the strength of the attachment and subsequently the attachment has failed.
    I'd hazard a guess the fabricator won't provide a design guarantee in writing. Promises mean nothing.

    I'm glad the design has reverted to the original.

    Moving on.

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