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  1. #1
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    Tassie's JDM BB1 club-supersprint build

    Right, that’s it. I’m making a progress thread.

    I’ve had the Prelude (aka Hazel) for nearly a decade now, she’s a ’94 JDM import BB1 which came with 4WS. It was my DD until a couple of years ago, now it is slowly becoming a track car since I can’t bear to let it go.

    It has had its share of problems over the years, such is the burden of owning a Prelude, so much so that it was just getting impractical to keep it on as a DD. The big ticket items were the failing 4WS and the driver’s side door lock breaking (requiring the door to be cut open), so I guess I’ve been lucky in that regard that it hasn’t been more. Many of the more niggling issues were related to the failing electronics and all the little creaks and groans she was developing, but after removing so much “stuff” she really is a joy to drive again. Having just over 200,000km it has fairly low mileage for its age, still on the original motor and it is still quite strong.

    In her current state she will (and my driving ability) do a 1:12 flat around Symmons Plains on street tyres, not great but still plenty of room to improve. I’m already the fastest FWD out there (read: only). Most of the cars that run on the club days I’ve been to are monstrous high-HP Skyline’s, Porsche’s, Evo’s and WRX’s that are mainly in the 0:58 to 1:07 territory (a V8 supercar can do a 0:51 but they typically do 0:52’s). I’m hoping that with some semi-slicks and some practice I’ll end up around the 1:12’s, with around a 1:08 to 1:10 likely being the absolute upper limit of a FWD chassis with a controllable amount of power. It’s a fast track though with constant acceleration and braking needed, so does not favour a small nimble car. There is another track in the state down south which is much tighter so I think the advantages of the Prelude would shine better there, I’m also contemplating jumping at a little motorkhana soon too so most of my focus at the moment is on the suspension.





    In her glory days (at my wedding actually)


    Aaaannnnddd.... where she spends most of the time now (test fitting the Enkei's in this pic)


    Engine:
    Practically stock
    NGK ignition leads
    K&N panel filter
    Custom 2¼” exhaust, hi-flow metal cat and sports muffler
    Deleted cruise control, air conditioning, stock air intake resonator, EGR, FITV & IACV
    Exedy HD clutch
    Penrite 10 tenths racing full-synthetic engine oil

    Brakes:
    Bendix Ultimate front pads
    Project Mu NS400 rear pads
    DBA slotted front rotors
    DBA HD rear rotors
    Rebuilt stock calipers
    HEL braided brake lines
    Penrite Racing brake fluid

    Interior:
    Stripped interior
    No-brand fixed back race seats on Bride sliding seat rails
    Forbidden short shifter

    Exterior:
    Awful, just awful paint
    Terrible 17x7 BSA knock-offs of a TE37 cup wheels w/ Goodyear Eagle GSD3 street tyres
    Enkei Racing Peak-II 16x7/16x8 w/ Dunlop DZ03G soft compound semi's

    Suspension:
    4WS Delete
    Hard-Race rear toe arms
    Tein SS coilovers
    Whiteline 22mm solid rear sway bar with reinforced mounts
    Hard-Race front and rear sway links
    Energy Suspension master bushing and trailing arm kits

    ICE:
    None, absolutely all gone.

    Misc:
    Autometer Ultra-lite water temp, oil temp and oil pressure gauges

    Future Mods:
    Too many to list.
    Last edited by tassie_bb1; 24th December 2016 at 10:22 AM.
    Symmons Plains - 1:12.280

  2. #2
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    4th Gen
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    First quick update, I have finally collected all the parts I need for my 4WS delete.



    I picked up a 2WS rear sub frame from a wrecker on the mainland and had to get it posted down. It wasn't in bad condition but the paint was flaking and scratched up pretty bad. I decided to have it powdercoated for durability and it looks SOOOOO good. Hardrace rear toe arms and front and rear sway links from Japan (took 6 weeks to get here) and a full ES kit from Summit Racing. Now for the fun part......
    Symmons Plains - 1:12.280

  3. #3
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
    Generation
    3rd Gen
    Model
    Si 4WS - B Spec
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Western Australia
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    11,096
    Long overdue. Looks tidy.

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Generation
    3rd Gen
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    Oct 2014
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    Queensland
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    Good stuff, looks like progress is coming. I'd love to do a 4WS delete on my 3G too, but I don't intend for it to be my main track car so I might keep it after all.

  5. #5
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, it is finally starting to progress after nearly 12 months of just sitting around.

    So had an eventful weekend. As some of you may know I took the sunroof out a few months ago, I had a poke around some of the bubbling paint and discovered this.



    Well after many weekends teaching myself to sand, bog and prime I had a sunroof panel I was truly proud of, then I applied a cheap rattle can of Milano Red I got from Autobarn and now I'm not so proud. There a) wasn't enough paint in a single can to give it enough coats, b) since the daily temperatures here haven't exceeded 13°C since like April and c) it really is cheap dodgy paint, well the result can be seen for yourself.



    I hate painting. I tried giving it a cut and polish and it didn't even out the patchiness at all, and there aren't enough coats on it for me to risk giving it a light rub down with some wet & dry. I'm not even that upset, it's on the cards for me to be replacing the whole panel with a sheet of aluminium probably this summer so this will do for a temporary fix.

    Took her for a drive last night for one last time before the teardown, without a rear swaybar and with non-functioning 4WS it was a little hair raising at times. It'll all be fixed soon though. A couple of pics from today.




    Anyone who says the 4WS rear subframe + motor aren't heavy is dreaming, that whole thing weighs a tonne compared to the 2WS parts. The only problems I'm having at this point are, apart from accidentally dropping the muffler on my shin, is the top nut won't come one of the rear dampers and I need to get myself a ball joint separator. I've decided I'm not even going to try and push out the old bushings myself, I know a guy with access to a press so I'll just hand it all over with a carton of something. I might have to get myself an impact driver too, I really want to get those rear brake dust shields off but the rotors are held in quite well.
    Symmons Plains - 1:12.280

  6. #6
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    4th Gen
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    So I took a break from working on the Honda today. A little back story, I've been trying to get my wife into motorsport for years now, she's not completely against it but we haven't been able to find anything she truly enjoyed. She hates driving the 'lude and is not comfortable on a track due to the other drivers. One of our friends runs a local car club which puts on Khanacross and Motorkhana events. A few months ago we went and watched a Khanacross and she was pretty excited to get involved, so we bought a $400 beater Mazda 121 just for this purpose. All it needed was a new set of driveshafts and to rip out the mouldy rotten interior (also, because racecar) and she's all set.

    Today was her very first Khanacross event and I'm pretty proud of her efforts. She took out the trophy for 2nd in the female class.

    Introducing "Duke"





    The other 121 sitting next to it in the last photo was run by another first timer, bought an unregistered paddock basher for a couple of hundred bucks and he took out the under 1.6L class for the day. He actually helped us out a lot, during her 4th run she must've rolled a tyre off the bead a little where it's then filled up with mud, whatever the case it wouldn't hold pressure any more. Since he had the exact same wheels and he trailered his 121 out (we drove ours) we swapped our busted wheel for his good one after his last run and before ours.

    I think she's hooked.
    Symmons Plains - 1:12.280

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Generation
    3rd Gen
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    Oct 2014
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    Queensland
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    Good stuff with the khanacross, interesting that there was another 121 out there as well. Reminds me of the Excel cup series races.

  8. #8
    Regular Member steve-gee's Avatar
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    South Australia
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    Really nice 4G Tas; looks great! I notice that you're calling it Milano Red - whereas I have one that I would call Burgundy that up until now I thought was Milano Red? So what is mine? See pic.

    Steve

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Eternity - the wrong thing to be wrong about.

  9. #9
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    Thanks Guys.

    Steve, there was another standard red on the earlier model 4th gens (92-94 I think) which was R-82P Cassis Red Pearl which looks pretty much like what you have. There should be a sticker on the inside of the drivers door or jamb somewhere giving you the paint code. I've never been able to decide which red I like more, the Milano is a really nice colour but is so prone to fading, the Cassis seems to stand the test of time better.
    Symmons Plains - 1:12.280

  10. #10
    Junior Member
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    That looks like buckets of fun!

    Oh, cool build too.

  11. #11
    Junior Member Zak's Avatar
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    5th Gen
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    VTI-R
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    Feb 2015
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    New South Wales
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    Wish I could do something like that. Looks soooooooooooooooooo fun!

  12. #12
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    What on earth did I do last weekend??

    Progress has been VERY slow lately, just cleaning and whatnot. I had the privilege of being able to use a friends hydraulic press so I managed to push out all the UCA bushings and 4 of the 6 LCA bushings during the week. The last two and the trailing arm bushings are proving very stubborn though. I bought myself a "Creme Brulee" torch (that's how I justified it to the missus) and burnt out the rubber but a) the remnants that are left on the trailing arm will not budge and b) getting the metal sleeve out of the LCA is very tedious. Pictures tell 1000 words though.

    Cleaned and re-bushed UCA's


    Having two small white fluffy Jack Russell's does not help things during shedding season, their hair gets in everything and that ES bushing grease is like if Vaseline and superglue had a sticky little baby. Still, new bushings give me a warm fuzzy feeling inside.


    Freshly cleaned and re-bushed coilovers. Note where the bump stop sits now, since it sits so snugly on the shaft I figured it was better to sit at the top right under the top mount so it doesn't squeak as the damper moves up and down. Also note I've now wound these things nearly all the way down, when I first put these in I was tucking tyre with the platform about 1 1/2" higher, removing so much weight from the back has given me too much unwanted fender clearance. I've also wound the damper to its hardest setting, i'm surely going to blow these things up very quickly.


    And the dreaded LCA and trailing arm.

    What a nice job the press did.

    And where I'm at with the other method.



    I was not planning on painting any of these parts since initially they looked to be in quite good condition. There was a bit of rust starting to form on the trailing arm where the bushing get's pushed in and I've managed to damage the paint quite a bit getting the old ones out so I picked up some chassis black in aerosol form. Now I'm going to have to paint everything aren't I?

    In the end I needed a morale boost so I mounted the rear cross-member and toe arms.
    Symmons Plains - 1:12.280

  13. #13
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    Updates galore.

    I finally managed to get one of the LCA bushings burnt and cut out and have stripped the whole arm back to bare metal. I have one trailing arm ready for paint too and the bushing out of the other one. I'll have to wait for the mercury to go up and the precipitation to stop coming down before I can paint.

    I found these puppies for sale on gumtree over the weekend too.



    Dunlop 03G softs. These things will stick like **** to a blanket. That's opened up a whole new can of worms though.

    I've started writing a to do list for the next track day (November 29th), damn only 3 1/2 months away.
    - Finish removing last ball joint from LCA's
    - Prep and paint both LCA's and trailing arms
    - Finish stripping 4WS wiring out
    - Install new bushings and reassemble
    - Repair broken chassis rail and get reinforced rear sway bar mounts made
    - Do the whole process again for the front bushings (probably won't have time)
    - Get a wheel alignment
    - Get a decent race seat, wasn't initially a priority but with the semi-slicks I doubt I'll be able to hold on without one, means getting a proper seat rail and harness too
    - Finish restoring the Enkei rims. Includes replacing any broken bolts, double checking the torque of all the others, installing new valves, getting them balanced and getting the tyres mounted. I'll have to grab some OEM style lug nuts too, the ones I have use the hex bolt adapter and I hate them, I generally strip one every time I change wheels (and they're steel)
    - Seriously considering an oil-pressure gauge. Getting the semi's has really pushed forward my time frames but given the extra traction I'm very worried about oil starvation. I'm going to run an extra 1/2 a litre of oil too. A baffled sump is the next obvious step if I am having issues.

    I have a full set of brake caliper repair and hardware kits, and a new clutch master and slave cylinder sitting there ready to go too, I think they can wait until later since I'll do a full proper bleed after the next track day anyway. I'm still undecided if I'll replace the brake/clutch lines with stainless braided ones yet, I was talking to the bloke I bought the tires off (who is a SERIOUS tarmac rally enthusiast) and he suggested stainless might be a bad idea since I'm already having issues with rear end lockups, the rubber lines reduce pedal feel but give a bit of a margin for error and given my lack of ABS sounds like a good idea. Dropping the rear end back down should help with the weight transfer a little but chances are I'll throw in a brake bias valve if I'm still having problems.
    Symmons Plains - 1:12.280

  14. #14
    Junior Member
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    Stainless braided lines seem to come with a mixed bag of opinions, I'd say replace them with stainless if they need replacing so you don't have to worry about them again but IMO a good bleed and different pads will make more of a difference than lines would.

  15. #15
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    Thanks Austro. My stock rubber lines look to be in pretty good condition, they aren't beginning to crack from what I can tell. I bleed frequently with Penrite Racing brake fluid and am running Bendix Ultimates up front so I'm pretty happy with the brake setup at the moment. She pulls up pretty quick and I'm yet to have any issues with brake fade or boiling fluid but at the moment I'm locking up the rears well before getting to full brake force on the front due to the messed up weight distribution. The biggest thing I was worried about is melting the rubber lines or puncturing one from too much pressure or if any debris strikes one at high speed, the rubber is really the weak point in the system so if anything can go wrong it will there. IDK really, there's lots of things like that I could do just in case something happens but probably never will. My current method of fixing it when it breaks is suiting me so far.
    Symmons Plains - 1:12.280

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