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  1. #16
    Junior Member
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    After another scout around/double check
    No CEL at all anymore, idles on exactly 1000rpm cause i havent got a test light to determine the dizzy position atm, only problem is.. nothing, it runs smooth, not rich or lean
    Good thing i didnt listen to you guys, id be broke out the donkey for sure with different ecus and mapping, this engine, as my licensed Honda mechanic said, is exactly the same as the H23A1, just doesnt have a knock sensor
    The exhaust doesnt blow ANY smoke, in fact its clear and has bugger all smell what so ever
    You guys need to do more hands on and less page flipping
    Thanks for any advice given and time taken to tell me, this swap is complete

  2. #17
    Senior Member Si_4ws's Avatar
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    Page flipping? You shouldn't start a thread in you plan to ask questions and then take the piss out of people for trying to help.


    81 x 95..... probably could have made a decent tractor engine

  3. #18
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    I wouldnt have taken the piss if people giving advice knew what they wrre on about
    Eg. These Hondas are computerized through the bumhole, if it runs rich or lean it tells you, any problem it tells you, the computer system is insane, it even tells you if it misfires, any problem and it reports via the CEL, i didnt mean to take the piss and thankyou for trying but i needed certain advice, not "i think" or "it might" sort of advice
    The longblock is not OBD2 fyi, its whatever you connect to it
    Thankyou again though

  4. #19
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Si 4WS - B Spec
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    Sounds like you've learnt a bit over the last couple of weeks. Well done.
    Just curious, Which injectors are you using? the ones from the H23 or the F22?

    Fact 1: The F22 engine you bought is an OBD2 generation engine as was stated. You have used the parts from the OBD1 H23 setup to make it work with the original ECU. Advice above was still correct.

    Fact 2: I re-iterate, for the same money you paid for the F22, you can nowdays pick up a H22. With that you get a few more kW and Vtec. But either way, it's a working car..

    I'm stoked for you that you have worked through this and got your car going. Awesome to hear it's back on the road.
    A lot of others would have sent it to the crusher.

  5. #20
    Junior Member
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    Thankyou Bob, i appreciate your feedback
    I used the H23 intake, loom, injectors, sensors, i bought a longblock so the rocker cover, head, block and sump, put in a new clutch, radiator and got the stock intake tubing, using Magnatec 10w-40 oil, did everything myself, only help i had was Heathy lowered the engine as i positioned it in, the stupid idiots at Enzo wreckers who put in the H23 did a crap job, 2 engine mounts were loose, found a few other faults, it was fun and now i know the ins and outs of my engine
    Only mistake i made was 2 sensors use the same plug, had them wrong which gave me code 6 hahah

  6. #21
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Cheers for the info.
    For reference and the reason why I ask, the H23 injectors would be what they call peak and hold. They use a resistor block which is mounted in the bay.
    The F22 being OBD2 used saturated injectors (no resistor block).

    In any case it's irrelevant with what you've done by using all the original gear.

  7. #22
    Junior Member
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    So it isnt going to run rich at all is it..?
    Anything else i should check up on for the fun of it?

  8. #23
    Senior Member Si_4ws's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Safetydancexcx View Post
    So it isnt going to run rich at all is it..?
    Anything else i should check up on for the fun of it?
    I normally wouldnt go to this effort to prove a point, but luckily I am home sick today.

    Agreed that you can run whatever sensors you want on whatever block, as I posted earlier, I used to run a H22Z (OBD2 motor) with an OBD1 loom and P72 ECU.

    The bottom line is that the H23 map is slightly different to the F22A. Happy to assist and provide somee feedback on the map differences:

    Fuel:
    Stuff all difference, the H23 map is a little richer due to the larger capacity, will run a tiny bit richer than intended in open loop mode, closed loop mode should be fine, no risk of leaning out up top. Differences can be seen below, please note that considering that only 20% of the injector duty cycle is utilised, a 1% difference in the map equates to a 5% difference in the fuel.



    Timing:
    F22A has a more aggressive map, there will be reduced risk of detonation using the H23 map, there will be no issues using the H23 map but the performance and fuel economy will not be as good as it would be if a F22A map was used.


    81 x 95..... probably could have made a decent tractor engine

  9. #24
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    It may be that he F22 map can be more aggressive with the presence of a knock sensor as a fail safe.

    I agree that the H23 map on the F22 engine will not be optimal. But not entirely convinced it's worth chasing tunes and ECU mods to address it.
    Best thing you can do is check the spark plugs from time to time. These little buggers will tell you a hell of a lot as to how it's running. Any issues, go from there.
    Being OBD1 still, gives you the benefit of being able to adjust the timing on the dizzy still too. Detonation issues?.. just retard the dizzy a tad.

  10. #25
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    F22 doesnt have a knock sensor, the H23 did

  11. #26
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    Those graphs compare the H23 and the F22A, mine is not an A, it is an F22Z6, dont tell me they are alike, just cause its an F22 doesnt mean its like the F22A
    This F22Z6 is the replacement for the H23A1 after Honda realized it was cracking heads between cylinders 3 and 4, they change the head, Shrink the bore by 102cc and give it a new number, that's all it is

  12. #27
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Safetydancexcx View Post
    F22 doesnt have a knock sensor, the H23 did
    Got it. So are you using the knock sensor? or have you left the wires disconnected?

  13. #28
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    Well Chris said to connect it but dont fit it
    I just taped over the wire to prevent shorts and hid it in the loom out of sight to avoid confusion, ecu hasnt complained to me yet so i dont see a problem
    I was just reading that apparently the F22Z6 is the H23A1 with different rods and crankshaft, same head =S
    Makes sense when the intake and header bolt straight on

  14. #29
    Silver Member renzokukenj's Avatar
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    I personally would of gone for the H22 as well

    My F22Z6 was fantastic though, VTEC would of still been nice in the old girl hehe
    ʍǝɹɔ uʍop ǝpısdn

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    How much do I have to pay you or how much dick do I have to suck to get you to take me for a ride?!

  15. #30
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    This might sound stupid but when i was Prelude hunting in the beginning, i wanted 4 wheel steer, a 2.3ltr engine, sunroof, translucent needles on the digital dash and i prefered the metallic dark blue
    I have all that except the 2.3 now, runs beautiful but in my mind its not the same, the 2.3ltr was the luxury model in japan cause registration taxes but anyway, point is i have my Prelude back so i really couldnt be happier, just have to instal the dust cover on the gearbox, stick intake and a new radiator then im getting her back on the road

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