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  1. #1
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    Purchasing OEM parts

    Hi all,

    I don't know if this is news to anybody else or just me, but I thought I'd share. Recently I decided I needed to fix my massive VTEC solenoid oil leak and get a few other genuine OEM parts while I was at it (tail light gaskets, exhaust manifold gasket and transmission breather). I tried a number of Honda parts sites based in the US (oemacuraparts.com; hondapartscheap.com; hondapartsnow.com; hondafactoryparts.com the list goes on), after carefully reading through the terms and conditions and even emailing a few it turns out that Honda does not allow US based stores to ship internationally any more, I believe even Amazon.com are bound by the new international distribution rights laws. I don't know how recently this happened but it seems to have been in the last 6-12 months. This bothers me as for all the parts I was after it would have only come to around $90 AUD + shipping (whatever that may have been) where the local Honda dealer wants to charge at least $250 for the same items (they never came back with an actual quote), many of which had to come from Japan anyway.

    In desperation Google may have saved me. I found a site http://jp-carparts.com/ which is based in Kyoto but the site is all in English... sort of. These guys will purchase the parts on your behalf and ship them directly to you, but the main benefit I found is that they have ALL the prices on their website. The search function is a bit clunky and all the images are pretty low-res but if in trouble I use one of the sites listed above to do a graphical search to get a part number, search their site and presto - internationally shipped OEM Honda parts for cheaps. All the parts I wanted from this site only came to $83.55 + $30.66 shipping.

    From the looks of it just about ANY part imaginable is available through this site. Want a new sunroof panel, sure thing... only $250. How about something pedestrian like a clutch master... $130. I could probably solve my can't-find-a-2WS-rear-subframe-at-a-local-wreckers problem and just buy one brand new for $340. I have only searched for parts for my JDM model, so all the parts I have found are JDM spec. There is a place to put in the VIN so I'm assuming the AUDM delivered numbers get a different listing. They also list for Toyota, Lexus, Nissan, Subaru, and soon to be Mitsubishi, but unfortunately not Mazda at this time.

    There are always other options too, there are many people that will purchase the parts on your behalf and ship them for you, such as Jessie Streeter or Import Monster in Japan. I was given the details of a guy named Jim Slattery (HondaPartsJim) who is US based and may be a good resource if the JP-Carparts thing doesn't pan out.

    Anyway, I sent an inquiry and had a response back within the day. Payment was ludicrously easy, I just put the invoiced amount into Paypal in JPY and it did the rest. All of the parts were in stock in Japan, so will be dispatched to me within a couple of days. I will update when (if?) they ever get here. If this turns out to be the real deal and shipping doesn't take months it could be a good way of finally ditching the local Honda parts store for good.

  2. #2
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Si 4WS - B Spec
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    I've had good experience with RockAuto.

    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php

  3. #3
    Senior Member Sean628's Avatar
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    good find, you can still buy from those us dealership through a shipping agency such as bongo
    Last edited by Sean628; 8th October 2014 at 06:06 PM.

  4. #4
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    Well, fast forward a week and this arrived on my desk today.



    I just love the look of genuine Honda stickers, makes me all warm and fuzzy. Turns out to have been a pretty painless process, I'll certainly be using them again and would recommend them to others.

    I had looked at RockAuto.com too but they do not appear to sell OEM parts, I'll definitely look at them for aftermarket bits though.

  5. #5
    Regular Member BlackR's Avatar
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    So was that through jp-carparts.com?


    Original Member: 2003 "Adam"

  6. #6
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    Yep, through jp-carparts.com. They were great to deal with, although their English isn't great so I doubt they'd be as easy to deal with if anything went wrong.

    I'm still waiting to hear back from the local Honda dealership too.

    Now I just have to get this freaking header off, I've already snapped my small breaker bar trying to separate the header from the down pipe. I really don't want to take out the radiator but I think it's going to be the only way to get enough leverage.

  7. #7
    Regular Member BlackR's Avatar
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    Wd-40 that shit first, and leave it over night, might loosen it just enough. And be more than liberal with it too!


    Original Member: 2003 "Adam"

  8. #8
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackR View Post
    Wd-40 that shit first, and leave it over night, might loosen it just enough. And be more than liberal with it too!
    Lol, tried that. Been soaking the bolts in the stuff morning and night for about a week now, they're still firmly stuck. I managed to get the 8 nuts holding the header to the block fairly easily with this method and didn't break a single one. I'm thinking about getting a bigger breaker bar and a really long extension and try and get them from under the car, if I keep messing around under the bonnet I'm gonna end up putting my fist through the rad if they ever do let go.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Sean628's Avatar
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    heaat always works for me or grinder

  10. #10
    Junior Member
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    Nice find - Also, use 6 point sockets which will grip better and half inch drive breaker bars.
    83 JDM AB prelude

  11. #11
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    VICTORY!!!

    WD-40 + a really big breaker bar + perseverance coupled with removing the alternator, front engine mount, air box, battery, most of the skin from my knuckles and temporarily relocating the radiator (with hoses still attached) did the trick. It's amazing what a difference using the right tools makes. By far the most challenging work I've ever done on the car so far, it wasn't just a question of strength but having the room and leverage to get a decent swing at it. I really don't want to put the stock header back on now and I did discover my front engine mount is busted too, I might have to throw some money at ESP earlier than expected.

  12. #12
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Or just fill the mounts with Sikaflex.

  13. #13
    Regular Member tassie_bb1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob View Post
    Or just fill the mounts with Sikaflex.
    I did think about that for a short term fix, I even thought about just running on the three that are left in the short term - it must have been doing it for some time now. I do like the look of the Innovative Mounts kit though, they have the option of running a harder poly bush too (75A, 85A or 95A), and for around $650 delivered still seems like a good investment in a track car, and the consensus seems to be that it'll run fine on just three of these. I struggled with the idea of just getting a traction bar instead (the ESP one comes with the front engine damper) but without upgrading the other mounts too I'd probably just end up busting them out anyway, and I'm not really at the point where I'm wheel hopping. Getting a stock replacement (about $450 for all four from JP-Carparts.com) or even the Hard Race harden rubber mounts ($480 for the set) just doesn't seem worth if for the price IMO.

    This thread is starting to get off topic.

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