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  1. #1
    Regular Member pure_oxyg3n's Avatar
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    Turbo build questions????

    Ok so I've decided to go down the long expensive road of turbocharging.... I have thought alot and changed my mind about a hundred times but looks like I'm going ahead... Nothing crazy but looking at gettin internals strengthened and what not...

    So this is my plan at the moment... I want to buy my rods, pistons an sleeves and put my block in to get sleeved an bored. I want to get my bottom end complete first and then after I save up a bit more I will do the head and run my turbo setup. I'm currently about to order hondata to run as my ecu. My question is... What kind of pistons could I run if I wanted to do my bottom end first and turbo later on??? Is this even possible?? I just don't have the cash at the moment to do bottom end, head, turbo and ecu all at once... Feel free to give your opinions on what I'm doing wrong cause over the next few weeks I will be doing alot of research

  2. #2
    Gold Member phattzy's Avatar
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    GARAGE : http://www.preludeaustralia.com/foru..._vehicle&id=30

    BUILD THREAD : http://www.preludeaustralia.com/foru...o-3rd-gen-lude

    VIDEOS

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    Quote Originally Posted by SAKI View Post
    PS: Can't wait to see your beast in action.. going to be one the highest power 3rd gens out there i reckon..
    Quote Originally Posted by Pacman View Post
    I am going down now to show them mine....

  3. #3
    Regular Member pure_oxyg3n's Avatar
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    Lol yea h22 jdm. Thanks man will be reading through these all today. Thanks for taking the time to post them

  4. #4
    Regular Member pure_oxyg3n's Avatar
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    Would I be correct In saying I should be chasing a piston that is 9:1 ??? I realize for turbo I will be lowering my compression I jut dont know by how much. My goals aren't very extraordinary but what I would like to Achieve is somewhere around the 200kw atw and still have a safe build... Are the scat rods of good sort ?? Reliable as eagle??? Thanks for your input in advance

  5. #5
    Gold Member Pacman's Avatar
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    The way I understand it, the higher you keep your compression, the better your car will perform before boost builds.
    But the con to that pro is, the higher your c/r the less boost you can run.

    Your power goals are quite realistic, so you can afford to sacrifice some boost, for bottom end driveability.

    I'm way open to correction, but I'd suggest around 9.5/1.

    You'd still be able to run 12-15lb very reliably on a built 9.5/1 motor. And it would drive great before boost came on. But hold on once it does.... LOL

    As for how and when to build what.
    I'd build your block and bottom end as you suggested first.
    Then throw it together with a reasonable turbo and manifolds and stock head.

    Then buy another head to build. As the head is probably about as expensive as the rest anyhow.

    Then throw the new head, on and consider your options from there....

    Just my 2c.
    Last edited by Pacman; 23rd May 2012 at 09:22 AM.
    http://www.preludeaustralia.com/foru..._view&id=12025
    Link to my garage.^^^^

    When words fail, VTec speaks!

    Quote Originally Posted by EXO8IC View Post
    My car is a twin turbo and has a blow valve with another little valve thing attached which silences that WOOSH (which I HATE) but it makes more of a strange sucking noise which can be heard quite loudly from my vents on the bonnet. It's quite odd...

  6. #6
    Silver Member diMii's Avatar
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    Yeh that's very good information pac. The h22 head flows good as it is and can hold plenty of power stock before anything goes wrong.

  7. #7
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Not sure why people get so hung up on how much boost you are running.
    The real aim is to make as much efficient power as you can on the least amount of boost possible.
    Higher compression and low boost will make for a much better drive than low compression and high boost in my book. A lot of this will come down to the tuning. You will get a much better tractable torque curve.

  8. #8
    Regular Member pure_oxyg3n's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info paccy. I actually have put alot of thought into what items to buy and get done at what stage. Your way does sound practical and I probably will head down that road. I realize there might be some differences of opinion here but should I be more inclined to be buying 9.5/1 or something higher like 10.0 or higher again??? I do realize that the higher the compression te more stresses it is puttin on my engine. Like stated earlier I'd like to have a relatively safe build.

  9. #9
    Regular Member pure_oxyg3n's Avatar
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    And are the darton sleeves the only guys I should be looking at?? Is there any other sleeves to consider??

  10. #10
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Would not bother with sleeves unless using forged pistons and chasing much higher power goals. Go for Mahle pistons on the stock FRM sleeves.

  11. #11
    Silver Member Phatlude's Avatar
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    Also as paccy was saying u can run high comp with less boost. But its actually better for ur engine to have more boost then revving it higher. Higher revs do more damage to an engine that boost so just keep that in mind. Thats y most turbo cars r low compression. Other than that these boys look like they have u covered.

  12. #12
    Regular Member pure_oxyg3n's Avatar
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    Yea bob I know I could stick in some mahle pistons on my stock sleeves but I'd like to know I did things right the first time. Id prefer to spend the money now an know my motor can handle it without a problem... Maybe it's not completely necessary to sleeve my block but I would like the piece of mind, however I can see what your saying

  13. #13
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Higher compression and turbo doesn't necessarily mean you have to rev any higher to get power though.

    People go low compression to enable lower octane fuels. As stated earlier. A hell of a lot of this depends on the tuner.

  14. #14
    Regular Member pure_oxyg3n's Avatar
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    So bob woul u recommend something more along the lines of 10:1???

  15. #15
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    The F20C out of the S2K runs 11:1 compression and people boost those straight out of the box.
    No reason why 10:1 on 98 fuels won't work on low boost and some timing wizardry.

    But whatever you do. Speak to your local tuning shop and engine builder. Don't go buying parts based on what you read here.

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