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  1. #301
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    Its painful
    I saw that engine tick over 150,000km's or more probably...

    The car and engine are at 300,000km's now... Pretty good going for a car built in '92 I think...

  2. #302
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    So the engine was pulled apart and everything removed from it. (not many pictures from this - I didnt think about taking them while I did it).
    Then came the task of removing the rest of the bolt from my crankshaft - for those who are new to this thread, the crank pulley bolt broke off inside the crank - thats how the engine broke down...

    After trying Ezi-Outs and drilling at the bolt for a while, this is the way we finally got the bolt out.





    We hammered a masonry chisel into the bolt and gently turned the bolt out.
    Trust me it wasnt easy though!

    I think this is what caused the bolt to break / sheer off! It was destined to break.



    And here's some pictures of the engine...





    The crankshaft out.




    Here's the bearings/gaskets/seals that are going into the rebuild...







    This is the block after I cleaned her up
    Solvent degreaser + Karcher.... kleen





    This is the install of the H22a Oil Squirters. This is something I'm transferring from the h22 to the h23 block for piston safety. I dont want them overheating when i'm pullin maad boosted vtak







    The oil squirters have to be bent slightly to allow clearance for the longer stroke of the h23 crank.





    And finally, a picture of some of the worn bearings from 300,000 km's. Not too bad eh?
    All Up i'm really happy with the condition of the motor. Its a lot cleaner than I expected.


  3. #303
    Silver Member ludecrs's Avatar
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    I always thought the H series engines had a bad wrap as being one of those 'dirty' engines so to speak.

    Shit looks relateively good nick for 300 odd KM's.


    Prelude: Sold.
    S2000: Sold.
    NSX: Sold.
    F355: Coming...

  4. #304
    Silver Member PJF_Lude's Avatar
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    i couldn't believe how clean the inside of the engine was, no brown staining of the head or the block, a testament to how well maintained steve keeps his car.
    ~Ian~

    Anything thing I say is my opinion, all care, but no responsibility taken.

    1989 Prelude Si Turbo - Laguna gold - Progress thread index or My Garage
    Prelude Australia POTM - June 2009 ..... Prelude Power POTM - July 2010
    2006 CBR1000RR - Silver Metallic - Clicky

  5. #305
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ludecrs View Post
    I always thought the H series engines had a bad wrap as being one of those 'dirty' engines so to speak.

    Shit looks relateively good nick for 300 odd KM's.
    I know! I was suprised...

    Quote Originally Posted by PJF_Lude View Post
    i couldn't believe how clean the inside of the engine was, no brown staining of the head or the block, a testament to how well maintained steve keeps his car.
    Really? nothing more than using decent oil (synthetic) and doing regular oil changes every 5thou km's and a new oil filter every time. Just common sense really.

    I'm going to ring an engine shop tomorrow and find out how much it costs to balance a crankshaft and get the cylinders re-honed. The block doesnt need it, but if its cheap enough, why not?

  6. #306
    Silver Member PJF_Lude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdReNaLiN View Post

    Really? nothing more than using decent oil (synthetic) and doing regular oil changes every 5thou km's and a new oil filter every time. Just common sense really.
    Common sense.. something a lot of people lack, even on this forum
    ~Ian~

    Anything thing I say is my opinion, all care, but no responsibility taken.

    1989 Prelude Si Turbo - Laguna gold - Progress thread index or My Garage
    Prelude Australia POTM - June 2009 ..... Prelude Power POTM - July 2010
    2006 CBR1000RR - Silver Metallic - Clicky

  7. #307
    Silver Member Seismic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJF_Lude View Post
    Common sense.. something a lot of people lack, even on this forum
    That's why I call it "uncommon" sense

    Quote Originally Posted by AdReNaLiN View Post
    I'm going to ring an engine shop tomorrow and find out how much it costs to balance a crankshaft and get the cylinders re-honed. The block doesnt need it, but if its cheap enough, why not?
    <cough> sleeves? </cough>

    Yes, it is I, Shane is not dead!
    Good to see the build is still progressing Steve! Mine's had no work done now for 7 months!! I've had a dispute with Skunk2 over a huge freight bill do to their mistake and that's the only thing preventing me from slapping the head on the block and dropping the motor in so I can start fabricating the pipework etc. Gearbox all built with new bearings + synchros + Quaife.

    Anyway, enough of me hijacking YOUR build thread. How the heck are ya?! Just read about the cruise this weekend and REALLY missing the lude!
    The path of Honda is beset on all sides by the iniquities of Mazda and the tyranny of Nissan. Blessed is the Honda owner who in the name of handling and performance shepherds his Honda through the valley of darkness, for he is truly his Honda's keeper and the finder of lost kilowatts. And I will strike down upon thee with great acceleration and furious VTEC those who attempt to overtake and destroy my Hondas. And you will know my name is PRELUDE when I lay my VTEC upon thee.


  8. #308
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    ^ ZOMG shane's not dead!

    Not putting sleeves in mate. There's a limit to my budget... and another 2grand on this thing for sleeves/pistons/rods etc is just too much.

    The hone/balance job is costing me about 3-400bucks.

    I was wondering about your lude the other day actually. I really wanna see you get some progress on your stuff soon...

  9. #309
    Senior Member Scotty's Avatar
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    Shane's back!

  10. #310
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    With my block in the engine shop getting balanced/machined, I have been doing research about other factors in a Turbo Honda setup.

    I came across an interesting and highly debated topic: Crankcase Ventilation. Since then I've been debating how I will set my motor up. I found this great pdf on Honda-Tech.

    http://www.ginger.cx/images/B20build...ase%20Evac.pdf

    I then did up my own diagram of how I plan to hook up my catch can.



    The idea being, the setup will use the vacuum created by the drop in air pressure in the intake (pre-turbo) to draw the blowby gas & air out of the valvecover / crank case through my baffled catch can, then into the intake.

    The oil/blowby will be filtered out by the catchcan and I may run another line down to the sump for maintenance-free drainage. If I do this, it will require a one-way check valve to prevent oil being drawn up from the sump.

    Let me know your thoughts on this...

  11. #311
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    My thoughts are to place a breather filter on one valve cover port. Then run a line to the catch can from the other. This generates a flow of air through the head. The pre turbo vac line is a great idea. A post turbo line could then run back to a second port on the catch can via a one way valve.

    The above diagram should work fine though and eliminating filters has some benefits.I wouldn't put the baffle plate as far down in the catch can as drawn there either.

  12. #312
    Premium Member AMPERAGE's Avatar
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    Question: Will the blow-by running through your turbo cause issues? I'm wondering if it will gunk up your turbo. Even a fine coat of gunk on the impeller blades will be enough to cause a drop in efficiency.
    AMPERAGE

  13. #313
    Silver Member PJF_Lude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AMPERAGE View Post
    Question: Will the blow-by running through your turbo cause issues? I'm wondering if it will gunk up your turbo. Even a fine coat of gunk on the impeller blades will be enough to cause a drop in efficiency.
    blow-by will be significantly reduced by the catch can, that's why it's there
    ~Ian~

    Anything thing I say is my opinion, all care, but no responsibility taken.

    1989 Prelude Si Turbo - Laguna gold - Progress thread index or My Garage
    Prelude Australia POTM - June 2009 ..... Prelude Power POTM - July 2010
    2006 CBR1000RR - Silver Metallic - Clicky

  14. #314
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob View Post
    My thoughts are to place a breather filter on one valve cover port. Then run a line to the catch can from the other. This generates a flow of air through the head. The pre turbo vac line is a great idea. A post turbo line could then run back to a second port on the catch can via a one way valve.

    The above diagram should work fine though and eliminating filters has some benefits.I wouldn't put the baffle plate as far down in the catch can as drawn there either.
    I dont want to ever force air out through a breather filter. The diagram shows a method that does exactly that.

    If I add a breather filter like you say, blowby will find the easiest/shortest path and flow the wrong way through the filter.

  15. #315
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJF_Lude View Post

    Quote Originally Posted by AMPERAGE View Post
    Question: Will the blow-by running through your turbo cause issues? I'm wondering if it will gunk up your turbo. Even a fine coat of gunk on the impeller blades will be enough to cause a drop in efficiency.
    blow-by will be significantly reduced by the catch can, that's why it's there
    Agreed that gunk will possibly be exposed to the turbo, however I dont believe this will happen as Ian said due to the catch can.

    I really dont think there will be a lot of blowby to be honest, the motor will be practically brand new.

    I'm mostly concerned about the force boost causes on your rings due to the buildup of crankcase pressure...

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