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  1. #646
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    So today I went and purchased myself a Metric Brake Line Double Flare tool kit. I also purchased a hardline cutting tool.

    As mentioned, the ABS brake master cyl has a larger 12mm flare nut fitting on it. So I needed to switch out the 10mm flare nut on the non-abs brake line.

    New tools in hand, I went to work. Here's the results.



    Cutting tool in action. Simply tighten onto the hardline and turn 360. Then retighten and turn again. Eventually it will cut through the hardline.



    The restults, a very clean cut and removal of the 10mm nut.



    Comparison of flare nuts.



    12mm nut on.



    Its very important to use a file and reaming tool to debur the inside and outside of the brake line before continuing. This will give best flare results.



    Attach hardline clamp from the flare toolkit. Then make sure only this much hardline is sticking out. Compare to the flare tool of appropriate size. In this case 5mm.



    Insert flare tool into end of brake line.



    Tighten down flaring tool onto brake line. This requires a fair bit of hand strength. Make sure you wind it all the way down til the flare tool touches the clamp.



    This is the 2nd part to double flaring. You take the clamp and wind it down without the flare tool inserted. This folds the metal back onto itself.



    End results - a perfect flare. Hopefuly it wont leak!





    This diagram explains more about double flaring.

    Hope this helps anyone looking to do brake line work themselves.

  2. #647
    Premium Member AMPERAGE's Avatar
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    A drop of clean motor oil on the end of the pipe being flared makes life far easier.
    AMPERAGE

  3. #648
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    So in continuation from the previous brake line work. Here's some shots of the brake lines installed with the master cyl.





    This is a brake line flare nut spanner. You need this tool if you're going to attempt any work on brake lines.





    Some more shots of the new bolts/nuts.

  4. #649
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    I've also done some more work on the wiring. Here's an example of my solder work.



    Strip the wires (I use a wire stripper tool).



    They should look like this.



    Find appropriate heatshrink tube and cut to size.



    Carefuly twist wires together end on end.



    Solder the wires. (its very difficult to take a photo and solder!)



    You should have a nice clean shiny solder when done. Allow the iron to heat the wire, then apply solder to the wire itself. Dont drip solder onto your wires. This will result in dry joints.



    Slide heatshrink tube over soldered wire.



    Use a heatgun to warm heatshrink. Dont let it get too hot or you could undo your soldering!



    Heatshrink will end up like this.



    Slide your splitloom over the wires.



    Tightly tape your splitloom. It should look like factory again!

  5. #650
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    I've done some more sould deadening.





    Following in RacingHonda's footsteps, I flashtac'd the boot.
    Came out really nice.

  6. #651
    Gold Member Pacman's Avatar
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    seeing your 4WS unit then was the first time i've wondered. Your 'finished' (for the want of a better word) project going to have 4WS?
    http://www.preludeaustralia.com/foru..._view&id=12025
    Link to my garage.^^^^

    When words fail, VTec speaks!

    Quote Originally Posted by EXO8IC View Post
    My car is a twin turbo and has a blow valve with another little valve thing attached which silences that WOOSH (which I HATE) but it makes more of a strange sucking noise which can be heard quite loudly from my vents on the bonnet. It's quite odd...

  7. #652
    Silver Member Veilside's Avatar
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    Looks good, consider doing something to sound deaden the front wheel archers too? Just don't use cheap spray tar.. it never sets and after the first touch of water and for the next 6 months onwards you get a nice dirty black spray up the side of your car like you've been driving in the mud.
    Quote Originally Posted by Pacman View Post
    +1 it's stiffness that counts. Not Diameter. At least thats what the wife tells me.
    (not sure she knows that much about cars though)

  8. #653
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pacman View Post
    seeing your 4WS unit then was the first time i've wondered. Your 'finished' (for the want of a better word) project going to have 4WS?
    Lol who knows if its ever going to be finished.
    Yes, I will be keeping the 4WS. Car came with it, why remove it? I love it.

    In case anyone was wondering, the 4WS is entirely unrelated to engines/ecu. Its a seperate circuit.

    Quote Originally Posted by Veilside View Post
    Looks good, consider doing something to sound deaden the front wheel archers too? Just don't use cheap spray tar.. it never sets and after the first touch of water and for the next 6 months onwards you get a nice dirty black spray up the side of your car like you've been driving in the mud.
    Yeah I hadnt considered it. I think the main noise in our cars is from the sheetmetal in the rear/under the seats.

  9. #654
    Silver Member Veilside's Avatar
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    How much did you get the flashtac for? (particularly the amount needed to do the interiour and boot)
    Is it hard to remove the carpet?
    Quote Originally Posted by Pacman View Post
    +1 it's stiffness that counts. Not Diameter. At least thats what the wife tells me.
    (not sure she knows that much about cars though)

  10. #655
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Veilside View Post
    How much did you get the flashtac for? (particularly the amount needed to do the interiour and boot)
    Is it hard to remove the carpet?
    I just got it from bunnings. I think its like 40-50bucks a roll. I've used 2 rolls so far.

    Removing the carpet you need to pull the seats / center console and some parts of dash... bit of a pain.

    The boot is pretty simple though.

  11. #656
    Silver Member Veilside's Avatar
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    Alright cool, center console shouldn't be hard I guess the dash parts aren't to hard to take out either, will look into it.

    Engine bays hot as... question though why with the brake lines did you not make them all follow the same path? keep em spaced 3mm apart and neaten them up? or is there something to go in there yet?
    Quote Originally Posted by Pacman View Post
    +1 it's stiffness that counts. Not Diameter. At least thats what the wife tells me.
    (not sure she knows that much about cars though)

  12. #657
    QLD Administrator AdReNaLiN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Veilside View Post
    Alright cool, center console shouldn't be hard I guess the dash parts aren't to hard to take out either, will look into it.

    Engine bays hot as... question though why with the brake lines did you not make them all follow the same path? keep em spaced 3mm apart and neaten them up? or is there something to go in there yet?
    I'm using OEM brake lines. I didnt make up any of the lines myself. Just swapped the flare nut on one of them for the bigger master cyl.

  13. #658
    Gold Member Pacman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdReNaLiN View Post
    I'm using OEM brake lines. I didnt make up any of the lines myself. Just swapped the flare nut on one of them for the bigger master cyl.
    SO just to clarify,

    You nut was too small. and you needed a bigger one. but to put a bigger nut on you had to buy a new tool.
    Then you just cut the nut which was too small off, and put the bigger nut on. with the help of a new tool of corse?
    http://www.preludeaustralia.com/foru..._view&id=12025
    Link to my garage.^^^^

    When words fail, VTec speaks!

    Quote Originally Posted by EXO8IC View Post
    My car is a twin turbo and has a blow valve with another little valve thing attached which silences that WOOSH (which I HATE) but it makes more of a strange sucking noise which can be heard quite loudly from my vents on the bonnet. It's quite odd...

  14. #659
    Gold Member Pacman's Avatar
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    Hows things progressing?
    Still hoping to have her running for the tunnel run?
    http://www.preludeaustralia.com/foru..._view&id=12025
    Link to my garage.^^^^

    When words fail, VTec speaks!

    Quote Originally Posted by EXO8IC View Post
    My car is a twin turbo and has a blow valve with another little valve thing attached which silences that WOOSH (which I HATE) but it makes more of a strange sucking noise which can be heard quite loudly from my vents on the bonnet. It's quite odd...

  15. #660
    Gold Member hiru's Avatar
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    coming along very very nicely! love the detail you are putting into the build thread. a big thank you for that (and i'm sure everyone will agree), much appreciated! love seeing the detail!

    Quote Originally Posted by Veilside View Post
    Looks good, consider doing something to sound deaden the front wheel archers too? Just don't use cheap spray tar.. it never sets and after the first touch of water and for the next 6 months onwards you get a nice dirty black spray up the side of your car like you've been driving in the mud.
    i'm glad i read this! i was gonna get some o that stuff! haha (coz i'm cheap lol)

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