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  1. #121
    Senior Member Son of Eevil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H22A LUDE View Post
    Milkiness was only when running pennzoil oil when the engine had ~180k km; the same engine has now done 240k km (still unopened) and is still running strong. For what ever reason the oil was breaking down under heat, I put it down to the oil and have not used it since.

    The 5w oil is thinner on startups/low oil temps than the 10w oil but the same viscosity at operating temp (~100'C).

    I know how oil weights work. I was referring to it viscosity at operating temps. There are some pretty strict standard relating to oils I find it difficult to believe it would just break down... How many K's had it been in the car for? Was it a syn or mineral oil?

  2. #122
    Silver Member diMii's Avatar
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    Dont even matter SOE oil just doesn't turn white or go milky without it mixing with water/coolant or extreme condensation in the motor

  3. #123
    Junior Member H22A LUDE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Son of Eevil View Post
    I know how oil weights work. I was referring to it viscosity at operating temps. There are some pretty strict standard relating to oils I find it difficult to believe it would just break down... How many K's had it been in the car for? Was it a syn or mineral oil?
    I am just reporting what I experienced a few years ago, I cant explain why the oil did what it did but it was specific to that one container I tried and I have never gone back to try another. The oil appeared to have degraded for it lost its viscosity, appeared milky on the dip stick (although it was still soot black upon changing it but with a light brown/milky/bubbly haze in it) and had heaps of "foaming" / bubbles. The oil would not have seen more than 4k km but did see daily gridlock traffic. I see daily oil temps ~110-120'C (head mounted electric sender). The oil was a semi synthetic; had a look for an image of the container but cant find an exact match in google images.

    Quote Originally Posted by diMii View Post
    Dont even matter SOE oil just doesn't turn white or go milky without it mixing with water/coolant or extreme condensation in the motor
    Exactly, it doesn't make any sense. Definitely not a head gasket related issue nor can I find any other rational behind it, but none the less I will not be using that oil in any of my engines again.

  4. #124
    Silver Member diMii's Avatar
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    it could be possible that it had a chemical reaction with the previous oil that was inside

  5. #125
    Junior Member treeman's Avatar
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    or somehow water got into the oil canister before the oil change or during the oil change.

  6. #126
    Junior Member
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    I used genuine honda engine oil which is 10 30 and it's about $35 or something like that for a 5L bottle it was good or only got 40k on my motor so that probably why aswell wouldn't use it if the motor was over 80k but now I have switched to motul turbo light 10 40 car runs amazing highly recommended

  7. #127
    Junior Member
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    i use 10-40 castol edge, my cars like it for some reason

  8. #128
    Junior Member
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    5th Gen
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    VTi-R
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    Can anyone recommend a good engine oil to use with a 1999 5th gen with 180000?

    On top of that, the person who I bought my new Lude off said that their servicing place said that you have to use proper Honda oils for the vtec to work properly, is this true?
    Last edited by Meevinman; 27th January 2014 at 10:39 AM.

  9. #129
    PA Expert ego's Avatar
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    Not sure about 5th gen but just used the Honda oil in my 4th gen vtec with 180xxx km.

  10. #130
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by egotzm View Post
    Not sure about 5th gen but just used the Honda oil in my 4th gen vtec with 180xxx km.
    Yeah I was hoping I would get a non-honda product. Do you think Penrite 10w-40 would be ok?

  11. #131
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Pretty much any 10W-40 will be fine.

  12. #132
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob View Post
    Pretty much any 10W-40 will be fine.
    Thanks for the insight Bob, much appreciated.

    On a side note, when I purchased the car off the seller, he was told by his servicing place to use regular Honda oils, as the vtec doesn't function properly if you don't.

    Is this fact or fiction?

  13. #133
    Junior Member
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    Hey everyone!

    I've been working in the auto industry for about 9 years now, and I'm currently working for autobarn. I've been selling oil for a long time and it's one of those things where the learning as well as product development will never end.

    I have have a few points to add to the oil discussion:

    - if you have an oil burning issue you should try changing it more often eg every 5000k's. Especially if you have purchased a car that hasn't had much love- old oil burns easily, since it has broken down and no longer has the same viscosity or lubricating properties it once had. Also, city driving (lots of start/stop) breaks your oil down quicker, as does higher rpm driving, so a 5k service interval is appropriate. If it still burns, (and you're using the appropriate viscosity) it may be time to move up to the next weight. This is NOT just 'masking the issue' it's industry practice. Thicker oil has a harder time getting past your rings and burning.

    - changing brands of oil has also been known to cause burning temporarily. Try to stick with a good brand, and the 'right' vis. Viscosity is more important than which brand you use- most of the well known brands are of a very high quality these days (but nulon or penrite are my personal preferences. Aussie too!)

    - if you can afford it, use a synthetic oil. It's more efficient in heat transfer, flows better, protects better etc etc. it also comes out cleaner as opposed to mineral oil which blackens quickly. This does NOT mean its not cleaning your engine, this is a myth. If you want a nice clean engine (which we all do!), add some oil flush before you change it. It helps, trust me. And always change your filter, they're so cheap.

    - check your dip stick at least weekly. If you need to top up, try to use what's in there already, but if you have to, use anything, as already mentioned its better to have enough oil in there than being at the bottom of your dip stick.

    Ok, that's all i can think of for now

  14. #134
    PA Janitor Bob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meevinman View Post
    Thanks for the insight Bob, much appreciated.

    On a side note, when I purchased the car off the seller, he was told by his servicing place to use regular Honda oils, as the vtec doesn't function properly if you don't.

    Is this fact or fiction?
    It's utter rubbish. Honda oil is just re-branded from whatever supplier they have.

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